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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.